Thursday, October 16, 2008

Random musings on Mexican and Cuban food

Forgive the long stretch since our last post, but between a trip to the other side of the globe and a job change, it's been busy lately and we've just now had time to settle again. There has been chowing going on, however -- and here are some regrettably brief thoughts on places we've been since the blog posts stopped: Dos Caminos on 3rd Avenue -- maybe it's just because I'm from SoCal and know good Mexican food, but it's been a rarity to find it anywhere outside. This member of the B.R. Guest empire (which includes Ocean Grill, Atlantic Grill, Isablella's, etc.) was not the exception. Even though Madonna was reported to chow here with A-Rod, it goes to show celebrity hot spots can also fall flat. Even though the fish we both ordered was cooked fine and tasted fresh, it was also bland (why anyone would think avocado "leaves" make an exciting crust for tuna is beyond me) and the guacamole scam perpetrated frequently in the city was on full display here, with a paltry amount offered up with way too much lime (a preservative for those who choose to make mass quantities in advance, as opposed to the charm and freshness of tableside preparation). Not a bad meal, but not memorable and overpriced at that. We did have a better Mexican meal several months back at Hell's Kitchen in, you guessed it, Hell's Kitchen, which offers an interesting menu balanced out by fair prices. The best Latin food in recent memory, perhaps ever in this town, can be found at Cafe Habana on Elizabeth and Prince Street. True, we've only brunched here twice, but the seasoned roasted corn on the cob covered in cojita cheese and lime juice alone is pilgrimage-worthy. I also opted for a "Michelada" -- something I'd
never seen or heard of before -- which involves a tall parfait glass half-full of ice, fresh lemon juice and Tabasco with salt around the rim. Into it you pour a bottle of Corona and squeeze lime. It's delish. For entrees, Alisa got the classic Huevos Rancheros and I got Chilaquiles, a dish done so differently so many places you never quite know what you're gonna get. It's one I ate growing up in San Diego that always consists of fried corn tortillas, red or green sauce, cheese and chicken or veggies in a casserole of sorts. Since arriving here, I've had it as a sad little pile of corn chips with red sauce and some grated cheese or a whole elaborate cheesy blissful casserole at Quantum Leap, a duo of vegetarian joints in the east and west village that does it expertly (although occasionally skimps on the portions). At Habana, it more resembled the pile of chips, put an ample pile that had started to submit to their soft tortilla form under the weight of a zesty green sauce and melty white queso with tender pieces of chicken hidden all across the plate. The accompanying black beans, with herbs still wading inside, are among the best I've ever had anywhere. We can't wait to go back.

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