24 Prince, revisited

What a difference a week made, and not in a good way. A week ago Saturday, cluing into the "24 Prince" beneath Nikki's name every time it popped on the screen during "Top Chef," we decided to pull up the webpage for her Nolita restaurant and check out the menu. Nikki, if you watch Season 4, is the one who made the sausage, pepper and onion sandwiches for the Bears game tailgate challenge, then ran out of peppers and onions before the judges showed up. Anyway, we went last weekend and had a great experience, start to finish. We got a reservation around 4 that afternoon for 8:30 and walked right in, even though we were 15 minutes late, and sat right down. Before long we realized Nikki herself was right there, mingling with guests between stints in the kitchen. It was a bit puzzling to see her in person just a few episodes into TC, but we quickly realized the show must tape far in advance of air dates. Staff said she's also bound to some contract with Bravo that calls for her to be disembowled if she reveals any spoilers before a show airs. We didn't bother to ask, but I did compliment her on the meatloaf wrapped in puff pastry and drizzled with a coffee-infused BBQ sauce ($17), which was among the best variations I've had on one of my favoriate comfort foods (except, perhaps, for Paul Prudhomme's Cajun version). Alisa had a salmon with pumpkin seeds ($18) and was equally pleased. For starters, we shared some mac and cheese eggroll-like things ($7) that, although pedestrian, were sufficiently yummy and a chopped salad ($14) that was fresh and satisfying. We were wowed by a rosemary pear tart ($7) dessert that finished things off. On our way out we made a reservation for the following Saturday, I noting to the maitre'd that we'd loved it and that next week the rez would be for Alisa's birthday. Fast forward one week. We arrive at 9 with our friend Kelly, check in, get a seat at the bar and aren't seated till 9:45. The maitre'd came over to assure us he was working on it once or twice, so we didn't get overheated. Food was more or less equally good: I did meatloaf again, Alisa got a tuna with cannellini beans and truffle oil ($24) and Kelly opted for a flatbread pizza with comte and mushrooms ($11), but interminable waits between courses/waiting to get our table cleared/waiting to order grated on all of us. We ended up at our table for two hours, often ready to order when our server arrived and quick to pay our bill when it appeared. We sat right near the front and often while staring blankly at our empty plates, as our waiter was AWOL, the maitre'd hovered just feet away looking utterly bored. But what really ticked me off was the complete lack of acknowledgement of Alisa's birthday. I mentioned it to the maitre'd when making the reservation, saw him write it in the book, and again reminded them when I called back to confirm the reservation. So when the pear tart arrived, equally yummy, but without a candle, it was just annoying. Sure, it's petty to get ticked over a little candle, but even TGI Friday's remembers things like that. And when you're marking another year on this planet, is it so much to ask for someone you love? Nikki, if you wanna be Top Chef, better school your staff a bit more. Till then, this town's got too many options to come back to 24 Prince any time soon.